Navigating the narrow lanes and archways of this Bavarian town on the Danube and Inn rivers is a pleasure any time of year- but never more so than now, when the Christmas Market transforms Passau's historic Baroque center into a wonderland brimming with bratwurst, lebkuchen, glühwein and good cheer. At the center of it all is St. Stephan's Cathedral, whose massive pipe organ- the largest in Europe- stars in concerts throughout the season. Your day in Passau includes a visit to Café Simon to see how they've been making their delicious gingerbread for four generations.